Maastricht: New Lives for Old Churches

Polare Bookstore,  a religious experience for Dutch book lovers.

Over the past 50 years the Netherlands has experienced a dramatic drop in religious practice. Catholicism was traditionally the country's predominant religion, and at one time its Catholic church attendance was the highest in Europe. In the 1970s the Dutch population was 40 percent Catholic, but today only 24 percent identify themselves as Catholic. And many of those who say they are Roman Catholic do not regularly attend church. As a result of the shrinking attendance, hundreds of Catholic churches in the Netherlands have been shut or sold. The enterprising Dutch have found creative new uses for these historic buildings.

Maastricht has many re-purposed church buildings. Some house offices and apartments. A Franciscan church close to where we lived now holds the Limburg state archives. A 15th century monastery and church complex near the Vrijthof has been made into a beautiful high-end "designer hotel" called the Kruisherenhotel. 

Chic lobby of Maastricht's Kruisherenhotel.

A former Dominican church in the center of Maastricht has been transformed into a spectacular bookstore. This church was not one of the casualties of the recent decline in Dutch religiosity. It was consecrated in 1294, but it hasn't been used for religious services since 1794. That's when Napoleon's army confiscated the property for military use. The gothic building has also been used as a town archive, a warehouse, and even for bike storage. In 2005 it was reincarnated as a bookstore, now called Polare.

Coffee Lovers cafe at Polaris

A popular cafe called Coffee Lovers occupies the area where the church's altar once was. Sleek black metal book stacks rise three levels above the floor of the nave. From the book stack's top balcony there's a great view of the crucifix-shaped table in the center of the cafe- a modern day altar where coffee worshippers can use the free wifi or meet with friends. We didn't find many books in English at Polare, but it was still a fun place to visit. 

The most unusual use of an old church that we found in Maastricht was on the Kesselkade, near the river. A somber looking Augustinian church there has been made into an indoor playground called Funville. A 30+ foot tall structure inside the church contains trampolines, ladders, and slides of varying heights for kids to enjoy. Parents can relax in a cafe lounge to watch their kids play (there's free wifi, of course). Church has never been so much fun.

An indoor playground in a former church- heaven for kids.

Funville's mammoth slide

Florence Revisited

Florence viewed from the Piazzale Michelangelo

The last time I was in Florence was during my junior year in college, when I spent a semester studying art in that wonderful city. I left there in the beginning of May to hitchhike around Europe with a friend. My last look at Florence was the view from Piazzale Michelangelo. It broke my heart to leave, but I knew I'd be back. 

I didn't expect it to take so long for my return.

Florence's famous Ponte Vecchio (Old Bridge) spans the Arno River

Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore

After a week at the Tenuta di Spannocchia, near Siena, I said goodbye to my watercolor workshop friends and checked into a hotel in the heart of Florence. It was a short walk to the Piazza del Duomo, where the huge orange-tiled dome of the  Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore (St. Mary of the Flower) looms above the square. Looking up at the dome and the massive concoction of white, green, and pink marble that it crowns, I remembered how overwhelmed I was the first time I saw Santa Maria del Fiore. Until then I had never seen a church that was covered in anything but wood, brick or stone. And I had never seen a church so massive in size! It was so big, so beautiful, and so exotic. Since then I've traveled a lot, and have seen many huge, beautiful churches. But seeing this magnificent church still has a powerful effect.



As a student I had climbed up into that beautiful dome- designed by Filippo Bruelleschi in the early 15th century. It's still the largest masonry dome ever built! The view of Florence from up there was wonderful. I wouldn't go up in the dome this trip. The line to enter the cathedral was too long. There were a lot of other places I wanted to revisit in Florence. Waiting in line would waste precious time. 

My Via Pier Capponi home

Visiting my old neighborhood was a top priority. As a student I had lived in a big house on Via Pier Capponi, near Piazza della Libertà. An elderly Contessa rented rooms in the house, which was her home. My room was in the front of the building, with a balcony overlooking the street. When I returned to Florence last October, I found the house easily and was happy to see that it's well taken care of. It appears that the building has been made into apartments. 

Via Dei Servi, approaching the Duomo

I followed the same route back from Via Pier Capponi to the Duomo that I had walked so many times all those years ago. I wanted to relive the thrill of seeing the surreal vision of the marble Duomo looming at the end of narrow Via dei Servi. It is just as beautiful as I remembered.

Birth of Venus detail

On Sunday I spent two hours in the wonderful Uffizi Galleries. The place was mobbed. The museum has a very large collection of religious paintings. I saw numerous adorations, crucifixions, annunciations, and Madonnas with children painted by a variety of Medieval and Renaissance artists. It was a relief to finally come upon Sandro Botticelli's beautiful Birth of Venus, a non-religious painting that (by a stroke of luck) was not mobbed by a tour group when I entered the room. 

The broad windowed hallways and stone stairwells of the Uffizi were not so crowded, and they held plenty of artworks to enjoy. Many were sculptures and portraits of prominent Florentines. I was amazed by how unflattering some of the portraits were! Lots of big, unusual noses. Maybe the fellow in this portrait was proud of his huge crooked nose.

One of my favorites was this sculpted portrait of a cardinal. A profile only a mother could love.

Michelangelo's David

When I was studying in Florence, I was able visit the David statue in the Galleria del'Academia often, using my student pass. In the winter months there was no waiting line. Sometimes I'd be the only person there, drinking in the beauty of Michelangelo's masterpiece in its tranquil setting. This time I had to share David with a multitude, all of us looking up in admiration at the marvel that Michelangelo carved out of a single piece of white marble. 

The Basilica di Santa Croce

Thanks to my Italian conversation group friends Walter and Sharon (who met in Florence, and lived there for a time in the 1970s), I had a Florentine guide for three mornings. His name is Massimo- "Max" for short. Max has lived in Florence all his life. He and Walter became good friends while working as tour guides in the city's famous Scuola del Cuoio (Leather School) at the Monastery of the Basilica di Santa Croce (Basilica of the Holy Cross). One morning I met Max at Santa Croce, which is the world's largest Franciscan church. 

Michelangelo's tomb in Santa Croce

The tombs of some Florentine greats are in Santa Croce, including those of Machiavelli, Galileo, and Michelangelo. Michelangelo had promised his body to Florence, but he died in Rome. His body was stolen from Rome and smuggled to Florence in a horse cart! The Pope, who wished to bury the famous sculptor in Rome, was not happy with the theft. But he allowed Florence to keep Michelangelo's remains.

Santa Croce's Chapel of the Novitiate

The Basilica of Santa Croce has sixteen chapels. Walter and Sharon were married in one of them- the 15th century Chapel of the Novitiate, which was built for Cosimo di Medici. A beautiful Della Robbia glazed terra-cotta altarpiece adorns the wall above the altar. What a romantic setting for a wedding.

15th century fresco above the corridor entrance

After Max and I toured the church and its lovely cloisters we visited the leather school. The scuola is housed in Santa Croce's former Franciscan Monastery. Its main corridor is decorated with 15th century frescoes and coats of arms of the Medici family who donated this wing to the friars. In the corridor we met Francesca Gori, a daughter of the leather school's founder. She was delighted to see Max, and arranged a VIP tour for us! 

A young leather worker gave us a demonstration of hand tooled embossing on a leather tray, using gold leaf and ancient tools from the scuola's collection. His work table was at the far end of the corridor. At the other end of the corridor, glass cases held samples of the beautiful- and VERY expensive- handmade leather goods that the scuola produces.

A mountain of fruit in the Mercato Centrale

The next morning Max took me to Florence's huge Mercato Centrale for a panino con il lampredotto. Florentines have been enjoying this specialty since the 1500s. Sharon and Walter had raved about lampredotto, which is made from the "fourth and final" stomach of a cow. I was curious, and asked Max where I could find this culinary treat. He took me to Nerbone's, a food stall in the Mercato that has been serving lampredotto since the market opened its doors in the 1870s. The lampredotto was served with green chili sauce. Max insisted that we have a glass of red wine with it (at 11 in the morning!) It was an unusual, delicious lunch!

Nerbone's, and its famous panino con il lampredotto

Max at Pasticceria Sieni

After the lampredotto lunch, Max took me to another great Florentine hangout, the Pasticceria Sieni. He said it was one of the best cafes in Florence for a good cappuccino. 
I wasn't disappointed. 

Max was a great guide, and lot of fun. Walter and Sharon and I hope that he'll come to Pennsylvania sometime so we can show him around, and introduce him to some of our local culinary treats- like scrapple :-)

The Palazzo Vecchio

On my last evening in Florence I returned to see the Duomo, and to the Piazza della Signoria for a last look at the beautiful Palazzo Vecchio- the "Old Palace" that serves as the city hall. The ancient buildings were gorgeous at night, lit up and glowing against the night sky. I was sad, having to say goodbye to Florence again. But the beauty of this Renaissance city at night washed away those feelings.

There's an old saying- you can't go back again- meaning that the experience is never as good when you return to a place that played an important role in your past. The saying didn't hold true for me this time. I enjoyed every moment of my return visit to Florence. 

And I'll be back, beautiful Florence...I promise. 


 

Siena's Zebra-Striped Cathedral

Duomo di Santa Maria Assunta

Il Campo, Siena's central piazza
with its beautiful
14th century campanile

Siena's Duomo di Santa Maria Assunta (Cathedral of St. Mary of the Assumption) has got to be one of Italy's most beautiful churches. Its gorgeous exterior is sheathed with white marble, accented with dark green marble stripes. 

Striped marble-clad churches are characteristic of the Italian Gothic style that was popular in the 13th century when Siena's Duomo was built. 

Zebra striped columns made of black and white marble dominate the cathedral's interior. Nestled behind all those overwhelming striped columns is the cathedral's high altar, a marble birthday cake topped by a giant bronze ciborium (a covered cup that holds eucharistic hosts) and four bronze angels, each holding a tall candle. More bronze angels attached to columns around the altar also hold tall candles. Angels, angels everywhere in this cathedral. And STRIPES!

Pisano's marble pulpit

The Duomo's marble pulpit, sculpted in the 1260s by Nicola Pisano and his assistants, looks like a mini-carousel. Lions and lionesses prance around the base, supporting columns on their backs. The columns are topped by statues of the theological and cardinal virtues, personified. Every inch of the solid marble rail at the top of the pulpit is packed with sculpted animals and people, illustrating the Life of Christ, Salvation, and The Last Judgement. Information overload in marble.

Like everything else in Siena's Duomo, it's over-the-top overdone…and breathtakingly beautiful.










When your neck gets tired from gazing up at the cathedral's spectacular columns, frescoes, stained glass windows, and starry turquoise ceilings, you can give it a break and check out the floor.

The She-Wolf in this floor panel represents Siena, surrounded by symbols of other central Italian cities

detail from The Story of Fortune floor panel

Even the FLOOR in this amazing church is beautiful.  56 marble mosaic panels cover the entire surface. They were created over a 200+ year time span, by about 40 artists. The panels are in all shapes and sizes, illustrating scenes from the bible, historical events, and allegories. For most of the year much 
of the Duomo's floor is covered, to protect the 
panels. Lucky for me, I visited Siena in October 
when the floor mosaics were uncovered.

Pinturicchio's Canonization of St. Catherine of Siena,
a scene from the life of Pius II

Through a doorway to the left of the high altar I entered the Piccolomini Library, which was commissioned in 1492 to house the illuminated manuscript collection of one of Siena's favorite sons, Enea Silvio Bartolomeo Piccolomini (a.k.a. Pope Pius II). Never mind that the Pope's collection never made it to the Duomo…the real treasure in this room is the series of colorful frescoes painted by Pinturicchio, an Italian Renaissance painter from Perugia. The story of Pius II's life is the subject of 10 beautiful wall paintings. Pinturicchio covered the ceiling of this fantastic room with painted panels of mythological subjects, bordered with geometric designs. 

Pinturicchio also designed one of the Duomo's most impressive mosaic floor panels, The Story of Fortune. 

The Piccolomini Library

The lavish splendor of Siena's cathedral is a reminder of the wealth and power that was concentrated in the Italian Papal States when the Duomo was built. Surrounded by all this costly beauty, you might forget that this is a church, not a royal palace. 

On my way out of the Piccolomini Library I saw a woman kneeling in prayer on those hard marble floors. She hadn't
forgotten the true purpose of this magnificent building. 

Tuscan Getaway: Tenuta di Spannocchia

Spannocchia's 12th century tower stands guard over the castello

The road to Spannocchia

I followed my talented friend Doris to Italy for a watercolor workshop week at a unique place near Siena called Tenuta di Spannocchia. This tenuta (estate) is named after the Spannocchi, one of Siena's powerful banking families who were residents here as early as the 1200s. The Spannocchi family owned the estate until the 1920s, when it was sold to an Italian count named Delfino Cinelli. Spannocchia is still owned by Delfino's descendants. The Cinellis operate Spannocchia as a Foundation, and membership in the Foundation is required for anyone who wishes to stay in its guest accommodations. 

This is a serious working farm, and as guests there we felt like part of the tenuta's family. The estate's staff (and the young interns who come to Spannocchia for 3-month work/study stints) work tirelessly to keep it all running smoothly. They grow most of the food served to guests and staff right here on the property. Spannocchia's olive oil, wine, and salumi products (cured meats) are also sold at local farm markets. 


In 1994 Spannocchia began an animal breeding program that works to increase populations of endangered domestic breeds such as Italy's Cinta Senese pig. Our group had a great tour of Spannocchia's Cinta Senese operation. The highlight of the tour was visiting an enormous sow and the 14 cute little piglets that she'd just given birth to.

                     Cinta Senese                                                     Momma pig nuzzling one of her cute new babies  

After becoming acquainted with these unique pigs, I was inspired to paint a portrait of Spannocchia's Cinta Senese. The tiny painting was a big hit at the art show that Doris mounted for us at the end of our workshop week.

There are wild pigs on the tenuta property, too. They are called cinghiale. We saw some crossing the Spannocchia road once when we were driving up the mountain after dark. The cinghiale are a nuisance for the Cinta Senese breeders. It seems that the wild pigs' aim in life is to get it on with the purebred pigs, and they are very clever getting around the fences :-)

But this one-eyed cinghiale got caught! His unfortunate head decorates the wall above one of Spannocchia's fireplaces. 

Spannocchia's rooms are comfortable, with an eclectic mix of furnishings. Old family portraits and mementos are in the common rooms and hallways. The castello's original 18th & 19th century decor has been preserved (and restored when necessary). The simplicity of the rooms added to Spannocchia's charm.

My room in the castello

My room, with its private bathroom, was in the central section of the castello. Oh, what a bathroom! The wooden-seated commode (much too posh to be called a toilet) is without a doubt 100+ years old. Its water tank is attached to the wall high above the bowl, with a chain barely within reach. The beautiful matching sink had a skinny brass spigot that dispensed only cold water. My shower had no base, just the tiled floor of the bathroom with a drain. Shower curtains pulled around to prevent the spray from soaking the rest of the room. 

My circa 1890s bathroom, fit for a principessa

I LOVED my quirky, elegant old bathroom. Everything worked just fine, and Spannocchia's wood burning furnace (fueled by wood from the property) cranked out lots of hot water for the shower.

There was a HUGE wardrobe in my room, two very tall wooden beds, and a most unusual pale green coffered ceiling, probably vintage 18th century. 

Two of Spannocchia's expert chefs

Breakfast, lunch and dinner were served family style on long wooden tables in a room in the castello, or on a pleasant outdoor patio if the weather was nice. 

Meals were very good, simple recipes prepared by cheerful Italian ladies whose voices and laughter came drifting up from the kitchen each morning. Spannochia's delicious estate bottled wine was served at lunch and dinner. We ate together with other guests and the interns. By the end of the week we'd made some new friends. 

The watercolor workshop ladies wasted no time in finding interesting scenes to paint at Spannocchia. One morning Doris gave us a plein air painting demo, teaching us how to capture the beauty of the castello and its ancient tower on paper. After the demo we all went to work, attempting to produce our own watercolor versions of the castello. Being such a slow worker, I didn't finish my own castello painting, but the other artists in our group completed some lovely little masterpieces that day.

            Geranium pots on the Villa's veranda                                                       Spannocchia's entrance gate

It was difficult to leave Spannocchia. Living in this rambling ancient castello for a week was quite an experience, like stepping back in time. I often got lost in the long hallways of its interconnected buildings. I'd follow the voices I heard echoing in the halls, hoping they'd lead me to the people I was supposed to meet. 

Sometimes I felt that at the end of one of those hallways, or in passing through one of Spannocchia's ancient doors...

Angelo Spannocchi
(1538-1614)

 ...I might enter a time warp and 

find myself face to face with this guy

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