Arles, France: Vincent van Gogh & Soupe de Poisson

Roman Amphitheater in the center of old Arles

Much of Vieux Arles (the quarter that is the old city) remains the same as it was way back when. It’s easy to see why Vincent van Gogh was inspired by this beautiful place. Soft ochre colored buildings with shutters in pastel hues line the streets of the old town, and a massive, well preserved Roman amphitheater is right in the middle of it all. The amphitheater was built in 90 AD. These days it’s used for summer concerts...and bullfights! Arles' very popular bullfight festivals are in April and September.

Hotel Calendal's cafe tables
 overlook the arena

Our hotel was just around the corner from this ancient wonder- it was the first thing we saw when we stepped out into the street each morning. At night the amphitheater is even more spectacular, all lit up. And it’s so quiet at night...kind of spooky. You can almost imagine the ghosts of Roman gladiators wandering around in the amphitheater arena after midnight!

View of Arles from the top of the Roman Amphitheater

Vincent van Gogh lived in Arles between February 1888 and May 1889. Many of his best-known works were created here. The city has marked 10 places where he painted, with panels showing the painted image near the actual site of Vincent’s subject. Some sites look very similar to the original image. Sadly, some are unrecognizable. The “Yellow House” that Vincent painted in 1888 was bombed during World War II; a Monoprix supermarket occupies its site. One site, at the Maison de Sante, has been restored and is now called L'Espace van Gogh.

Maison de Santé psychiatric hospital (Vincent admitted himself after cutting his ear off!); his painting of its garden.

We spent part of one afternoon strolling in the Alyscamps, which was Arles’ principal burying ground for over 1500 years. The Romans who occupied Arles (called Lugdunum in those days) buried their prominent citizens there. In the 4th century there were already several thousand tombs in the Alyscamps. During the Middle Ages this peaceful place was a tourist attraction of sorts. Pilgrims from all over Europe would stop to see the precious religious relics in the church of Saint Honoratus at Alyscamps, and to view the tombs of famous ancients. Today the Medieval church is in ruins, and all that remains of the tombs are empty, worn stone sarcophagi that had been looted in the 1400s. A huge chunk of the original Alyscamps has disappeared into the surrounding neighborhood development; much of it was ripped out to make way for a canal and train tracks during the 19th century. In spite of this, Alyscamps is still a lovely, tranquil spot. Vincent van Gogh and Paul Gauguin painted there side by side in October 1888.

Gauguin's and Vincent's paintings of the Arles Alyscamps; empty sarcophagi lining the path.

On our last afternoon in Arles we ate lunch at the Hostellerie des Arenes, a little restaurant adjacent to the amphitheater. Provencal's famous soupe de poisson (fish soup) was on the menu. Each bowl of dark reddish-brown soup came with an another plate that held toasted slices of baguette, a fresh garlic clove, shredded parmesan cheese and a tiny bowl of saffron colored rouille (a thick, garlicky sauce with an indescribably yummy taste). Our patient waiter gave us soupe de poisson instructions: rub the raw garlic clove on the toasted baguette slice; place a dollop of rouille on top and float the slice in the soup; sprinkle the concoction with shredded parmesan cheese...et voila! The soup was DELICIOUS, a soup we’ll be dreaming about until the next time we’re in Provence. A nice way to end our visit to the town that inspired van Gogh. 

Provencale Soupe de Poisson comes with extras.

While we were eating we were entertained by the antics of a black cat who was playing in the street  between the arena and our cafe. The kitty was very friendly, and allowed anyone who passed to pet him. He was gone by the time we left the restaurant. But we saw him again, lounging on top of some tables on a hotel terrace. What a life! I'd love to be that kitty, living in that beautiful little corner of Vieux Arles...