Cologne/Köln Hauptbahnhof & the Cathedral Next Door

View of the Cathedral from inside the Hauptbahnhof

On the last day of November I set out to visit my French friend, Benedicte, who lives near Heidelberg, Germany. I had to make a train connection in Cologne (Köln to the people who live there). It would be a long wait for the train to Mannheim where Benedicte would meet me. I'd heard that the famous Cologne Cathedral was close to the Hauptbahnhof- the main train station- so there would be time for me to see this huge church, which is Germany's most visited landmark (an average of 20,000 visitors a day!)

Köln Hauptbahnhof seen from the Cathedral steps.

I was surprised to see how close the Cathedral is to the train station. The view of the Cathedral's facade from inside the station is awesome. And the view from the top of the Cathedral steps over the busy Bahnhofsvorplatz (the space between the Cathedral and the station) gives a sense of the great number of people who pass through this important transportation hub each day.

I was disappointed by the Cathedral's interior- it was a huge, dark and gloomy place. But there are some lovely carved and painted altarpieces on display in the church, and an interesting little 16th century statue called the Jeweled Madonna that wears a white silk robe pinned with ex-votos (offerings to a divinity or saint). In front of this little gem were many rows of lighted candles, and a number of visitors were adding to them. It appears that the Jeweled Madonna is a popular gal in Cologne/Köln.

A curious wheeled wooden contraption was sitting in a corner, under one of the stained glass windows. There was no sign to explain what it was used for, and I found no brochures in the  Cathedral that explained anything…so I approached two official looking men in long red robes who carried small wooden boxes that said für den Dom (for the Cathedral). They were engaged in a tête-à-tête, and did their best to ignore me. Undaunted, I interrupted them with "Excuse me, do you speak English?" They did, and one begrudgingly answered my question (it was a window washing/fire fighting ladder). Hmmmm…maybe I was supposed to make a donation in their little wooden boxes before speaking to them? After their unfriendly response I certainly wasn't going to donate to für den Dom with these unhöflich guys collecting!

The Cathedral was not a gezellig kind of place, so I headed back to the Hauptbahnhof. On the way across the Bahnhofsvorplatz I saw a cute little man playing a street organ. Instead of a real monkey (the traditional organ-grinder's companion) he had a toy monkey sitting on top of his musical box. There was a strong resemblance between this man and his fake monkey! The sight of him and his monkey- and his delightful music- cheered me up, so I gave him a couple of Euros. He was a much more worthy recipient than the grumpy red-robed cathedral guys would have been. They could learn a lesson from the organ grinder.

Inside the Hauptbahnhof I was welcomed back by some cheerful teenagers who were holding a free hugs sign. After I got my very nice free hug I thanked the young lady and headed for my train to Mannheim. Too bad the free huggers didn't have a donation box, because I was feeling very generous by this time. They gave me a lovely parting gift upon my departure from this great city.