Sunday, December 22, 2013

Heusden: a North Brabant Gem

Windmill and houses near Heusden's tiny harbor.



On the day that I visited Den Bosch I also spent a few hours in Heusden, a charming old North Brabant town. Since 1968 the inhabitants have been working to restore Heusden to its 16th century fortress form. In the tourist office there's a remarkable scale model of the town, complete with 3 tiny windmills. 

Heusden scale model in the VVV (tourist office)







The approach to Heusden is beautiful. We crossed green marshlands teeming with birds. Entering the town we walked on top of high grassy mounds that are part of the old fortifications, passing two windmills. It's hard to imagine that this peaceful little town was at one time in constant danger of attack.





From the ground it appears that Heusden is surrounded by a green walking path, with rectangular mini-parks that jut out into the water (the Maas was diverted centuries ago to create the huge moat that encircles the town). The grassy, pointed parks are reconstructions of the 16th century ravelins built to protect the town.

Heusden Fortress from the air, showing its pointed earthwork ravelins
My friend had dropped me off to explore the town while she was busy shuttling her kids to after-school activities. Having no map, I got lost a few times.




At one point I entered a narrow alley that had a street name. It led to a maze of brick walled walkways that wind their way around the enclosed back gardens of homes facing the street. An old pair of wooden klompen decorated the wall in one back yard.




Heusden harbor's tiny white drawbridge
One of the prettiest spots in Heusden is its tiny harbor, which is entered via an old wooden drawbridge. In 1908 the original harbor was filled in. Fortunately, it was restored to its original form in the 60s. This has got to be one of the world's cutest harbors! I left Heusden just before sunset, when the sky behind the little drawbridge was turning pink.  A beautiful North Brabant sight to remember.


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